Rajdher-Koldher-Indrai-Chandwad - Trek of Exploration

The day before going to this trek I updated my FB status as "Going for a range trek after a long time....my sleeping bag sees the outer world after one year". Indeed it was a long time I did a 2 days trek, 2014 went doing 1 day treks or just no trek for a brief period of time. The reason I would not better explain here, coz that's a long story which I would like to pen down in my blog at some point in future. So I was really excited about this trek and more eager to go as there were some old faces to be seen after a long time. Shikarvedh arranged this trek in Nashik Region, it was almost a tradition of Jagdish Patil (group leader) to arrange Nashik range trek in January. All the old and regular guys of the group would assemble for this trek as newbies were generally not interested in such treks which were less of picnic and more of exploration. I would call this group more of explorers than trekkers, as all guys are interested more to see what's up their at the top of the fort and the trek just happens for that only reason.

Our group of 14 people started cruising on smooth Mum-Nashik Highway on Friday Night (16thJan) in a tempo traveller. Our driver was manoeuvring through the heavy vehicles traffic on highway with surgical ease. With a small tea and pee break  we were in Nashik around 4 o clock were two more guys from Pune joined us. From Nashik we started moving towards Chandwad which is about 60 Kms on Mumbai Agra Highway. 4 kms ahead of Chandwad keeping your vehicle on the same highway we took a left when you see chandwad temple and fort at the right side (1 km after toll plaza). After 10 minutes, we reached Rajdherwadi which is base village for Rajdher and Koldher Forts. After a hearty "Poha" breakfast at Pundlik's house, everyone was ready to take on the challenges which were expected to come throughout the day. Pundlik was the young guy from Rajdherwadi village and our guide for two days. As SunGod threw light into the surroundings we could see Rajdher and Indrai Forts clearly from the village which were looking like big black figures in dark

 Indrai Fort from Rajdherwadi

Rajdher Fort from Rajdherwadi

Rajdher Fort from Rajdherwadi

After recharging our water bottles and energy, we hopped into our vehicle which left us 2 kms ahead of Rajderwadi. The advantage of having our own vehicle was we could keep our heavy rucksacks in the vehicle and trek freely with less burden on our backs. So, we started to walk behind Pundlik and our first destination was Koldher Fort, which is a long way back of the Rajdher Fort. After a flat walk of 30 minutes keeping Rajdher fort on right side, you can see Koldher Fort. Kodher fort is a triangle shaped mountain standing tall with attitude.

Koldher Fort from the Plateau

After the plateau there is a long U Shaped Traverse across the mountain which is quite a long walk and again 45 mins down you come right below the Koldher fort

Walking ahead for 20 mins, you come under the huge wall of Koldher Fort, which is almost a 60 degree climb, the climb is short but it drains all of your energy. The route has lot of thorny shrubs and lot of them get stuck in your clothes.

Entrance of the Fort has Rock Cut Steps

After reaching the Door of the fort, we 3 guys moved toward the left hand side and after walking for 5 mins in thorny shrubs, we discovered the most amazing view of Nashik Fort Range. We could see Dhodap, Kanchana and Saptashrungi. As the weather was foggy and dusty, we could manage some unclear pics of the range.

Kanchana-Dhodap-Saptashrungi, All in one view from Koldher Fort

Unfinished Cave Structures on Koldher

There is not much to see on the fort, except the amazing view of Nashik Fort Range, We immediately started to descend as our next target was Rajdher, which is a long walk from Koldher fort. Our group was struggling to save Water, as the steep climb of Koldher had tested the best of our stamina. Our guide Pundlink helped us to locate some clean water dripping from a stream, so we decided to have our lunch besides that water source. After a hearty lunch, we were determined to conquer Rajdher Fort, it was around 1 PM when we started to walk towards Rajdher.

Walk Towards the Huge Rajdher Fort

After climbing and then walking through a huge traverse on the steep surface of Rajdher for almost an hour, we came across a 40 feet ladder which has been built by the villagers to reach on the rock cut steps of Rajdher. This iron ladder is replacing the first 10-15 steps which are missing, further there are rock cut steps to reach the top of the Fort. One has to climb the iron ladder very carefully, as after 12 feet, there is a bent in the ladder which comes very close to the body. You need to keep balance and not see downwards, which can make you dizzy. It is not very hard to climb the ladder, but need to be very alert, for safety you can put up a rope to have a extra support. After the ladder there are rock cut steps, one need to be little careful while ascending, as there is deep valley on right hand side and no support on left side. Getting down the ladder is again a different kind of experience, as you can't see the step below, so its more difficult than climbing up. Be careful that at a time only one person is climbing or descending on the ladder. 

40 Feet Ladder at Entrance of the Rajdher Fort

Rock Cut Steps of Rajdher Fort

Rajdher fort is a paradise for explorers, there are lot of things to see on the fort. Immediately as you leave behind the steps you can see a well type structure. Ahead you can see a huge cave, where currently someone stays and has lot of goats inside the cave. There is a nice lake besides which stands a small Shiv Temple. There are potal water cisterns all over the fort, the cold water from those cisterns can't match any packaged drinking water. Drinking that water was so satisfying, we could hardly explain the experience, it re-energized us for the descend downwards towards Rajdherwadi.

Small Well Type Structure after the Entrance

Huge Cave with Lot of Goats

After a hour of exploration, we started our descend back to Rajderwadi. Got back to base village around 5 PM and stayed for the night in Village in and around Pundlik's home.

For the next day our target was Indrai Fort and Chandwad Fort. Completing our morning chores we got into our tempo traveller to move towards IndraiWadi which is 3-4 kms from Rajdherwadi. Instead of climbing directly on the face of Indrai, our guide Pundlik suggested us to start the walk from a plateau adjacent to Indrai. This approach starts from a point ahead of the Indrai Village. A local guide is necessary while doing this range, as without a guide you will be wasting time getting directions and wandering off track. 20 mins of steep climb we reached plateau from where we could see huge expanse of Indrai Fort clearly. The plateau was an excellent spot for photography with Indrai Fort in background.

The Awesome Myself with Indrai Fort

Huge Expanse of Indrai Fort

Indrai on Left and Rajdher on Right

It takes one and half to two hours to get below the Indrai Fort. On the way you meet SatiMata Temple and a Hanumanji Statue inviting you to the fort. Also on the way, we saw lot of traps laid down by the villagers to catch rabbits. From Pundlik we learned that after Makar Sankranti, villagers have a tradition of hunting. Around SatiMata temple we found lot of holes which seemed to be dug by humans, the myth of the place is that there is huge treasure around that temple. So people come at night and dig the place surrounding it in hope of finding treasure

Going ahead rock cut steps of Indrai Fort were clearly visible. The steps were so beautifully carved in the rock that it would have taken years to built them. Instead of going by the normal route, our guide suggested that there is a Gupt Darwaza, which is around 10-15 mins LEFT to the normal router of steps. Ascending by Gupt Darwaza was a good experience, as there was a small rock patch or you can sneak through a small hole below it.

Approach through Gupt Darwaja

Coming up from Gupt Darwaja, you can see the vast Indrai Fort. As I said for Rajdher Fort, Indrai is also a paradise for explorer. You can find all things on this fort which you want to see caves, fortifications, lakes, water cisterns, temple etc. Indrai Fort is a must visit for all trekking lovers. Caves on this fort are beautifully carved, nicely arranged in a line, they look like a 5 star hotel of ancient times. Indrai fort is a great place for camping, there are lot of places to stay especially the caves.

Koldher At Left and Rajdher at Right, View from Indrai

5 Star hotel Rooms with AC Ducts :-P

Don't Know why are these holes made at the edge of fort, if anybody knows let me know

Beautiful Lake with Shiva Temple, One has to walk through the water and then only enter the Temple

It took us around 2 hours to explore Indrai Fort and 1 hour descend back to our vehicle. After Indrai, we headed towards Renuka Devi Temple near the highway, which is a very old temple but well maintained. As all trekkers were hungry, we decided to have lunch at dhaba first before going to Chandwad Fort. It was already 2 PM and we feared that we would miss Chandwad. At 3:30 PM we started towards Chandwad fort and reached the temple high on mountain. Above we could see, Chandwad fort and as per our leader, it would take 2 hours to ascend and 1 hour to descend. Therefore, it was mutually decided that we will cancel to hike the chandwad fort as it will take lot of time and the journey back home will get late. Instead, we decided to do AhilyaBai Holkar Wada in Chandwad town. There was sadness of missing Chandwad fort, but it was all gone after seeing the Holkar Wada. The grandiose and magnificence of the palace was exceptional. The palace was under repairs and was getting ready to become a museum. We were lucky to see it without paying anything.

Renuka Devi Mandir, Chandwad

Holkar Wada, Chandwad

Holkar Wada (top view)

Ancient Well behind Holkar Wada

Our Wonderful Group at Holkar Wada

Cruising on the Highway, we reached Mumbai around 10 PM. Overall it was an awesome trek with awesome people. Rajdher and Indrai were the limelight of this trek. Would love to explore these forts again in coming future.

Our Awesome Group 

Lonely Old Man

It was a usual weekday morning and Thane station was bustling with activity. Crowd was swelling and everybody was rushing to get into the trains so that they can reach their workplace in time. Amidst crowd were those curious and frightened eyes, looking at the maddening crowd trying to get out and get in the train. With every train arriving, loads of people were coming out like a swarm of bees from the hive and at the next moment almost the double of those alighted made their way inside pushing and punching. Those feeble eyes were finding this scenario unusual and amazing at same time, although this was a normal morning in the life of a Mumbaikar.

As I went close to him, he sensed that I am coming to ask if I can help him. So before I could ask, he said "I want to go to Mulund, how can I go if I can't even get in the train." Standing in front of me was a 5'4" frail guy in 70s something wearing a cream colour kurta and sparkling white 'lungi' with chandan applied on forehead. He was carrying a cotton zhola type bag  just like those carried by struggling writers. With his fluent english speaking tone, I concluded he must be from the southern part of India and most probably he was new to Mumbai.

"Sir, Mulund station is the immediate station after Thane, you can catch a train from platform no. 1, where trains start from Thane and have less crowd. Trains on this platform come from far distance and are very crowded, even if you get in, there is less possibility you will be able to get down at next station" I said to the old man.

"Platform no. 1???" old man asked.

"Yes, the one there" I pointed towards the direction of platform no. 1

"But someone there told me that trains to Mulund come on platform no. 4, so I came here" the old man showed a little disgust in his voice

"Yes, that is true but you can see the trains are crowded, getting into the train from Platform no. 1 will be easy for you" I explained after analysing that the old man was weak and couldn't push and punch.

I could see him thinking now, with the sweat dripping from his forehead mixing with the chandan and flowing down to the tip of nose. Hot and Humid climate of Mumbai added to the arduous journey he had taken from platform no. 1 to 4 via the overhead bridge.

"Ok, I will go to platform no. 1" he said after mentally preparing to climb the steep stairs and he started

Seeing his back, I thought may be I should help him to get into the right train or there's a probability that he may get misguided again. I was suppose to visit a client in Kalyan in opposite direction and I was already running behind time. I could see him walking upstairs and he had only managed to clear half of them slowly and steadily taking support of the railing. I quickly made some calculations and rushed towards the old man.

"Sir, I will accompany you to platform no. 1, indicator says there is a train leaving from there in 10 mins" I said as I reached him.

He smiled and said "OK"

As we started climbing the remaining stairs, I quickly messaged my client that I would be late by 15-20 mins. As I saw the old man slowly walking besides me, it was clear that climbing stairs was a backbreaking task for him. We reached on the overhead bridge and my curiosity broke in,

"Sir, are you new to Mumbai?"

"Yes, I am from Kerala, all my life till now I haven't traveled to any other part of India, this is my first time" he said while slightly panting by the climbing effort.

"So what brings you here now?" I asked

"There is an Ashram of our Guru near Mulund and today there is a big function, followers from all over India are attending same" he said as we started to walk downstairs towards platform no. 1.

"Ohh I see" I exclaimed and asked "Are you alone?? I mean no one is accompanying you? Your family?"

"No, there is no one in my family, my wife passed away 5 years ago and we didn't have kids, one of my friend stays here in Thane, I am staying there for two days" he said calmly

"Ok !!" I said with an expression of dismay

As we reached on platform no. 1, train was already standing and ready to go within 2 minutes.

Hurriedly I signed the old man to get into the train. Before getting into the train he asks "You stay in Thane?"

"Yes Sir, I have been born and brought up in Thane" I said.

"You doing a job or business?" he asked looking at the bag I was carrying on my back

"Ohh Yes, I am working in an automobile company" I said wondering if he knew Mahindra & Mahindra which was well engraved on my shirt, maybe he didn't.

"God Bless You" he smiled and got onto the footboard of the train. I told him not to seat as Mulund was the next station and get down only when the train has fully stopped. I asked a co-passenger to help him to get down which he readily agreed. As train made its move, I can see him smiling and bidding a good bye to me, his eyes still curious and frightened.

Minutes after I was on my way to Kalyan, still wondering if the old man had got down at Mulund safely and had he found the ashram he was suppose to go. Most probably he will find his destination, Mumbai is not such a bad place for strangers, thousands of people pour in daily from various parts of India.

This unexpected meeting with the old man made me remember how one fine day my grandfather suffered a stroke while climbing the stairs of railway station. Before he was taken to hospital, he passed away in the ambulance. All alone he went away, no one from our family was besides him as he took his last breath. Corners of my eyes were suddenly moist and I hoped the Lonely Old Man was able to find his destination safely.

भास होते तुझे सारखे

भास होते तुझे सारखे,
आहेस तू इथेच कुठेतरी,
आर्श्यात मी जेव्हा पाहतो स्वताला,
डोळ्यात असतेस तू कुठेतरी

मुक्त स्वच्छंद तुझे हसने,
क्षणभर राहणारे तुझे रुसने,
शोधु तुला कुठे सखे साजने,
हृदयातच राहतेस तू कुठेतरी

रिमझीम पडनारय्I  थेम्बांच्या वादळात,
वाट पाहत बसलो मी ओसरिवरि,
कावरे मन हे माझे,
फ़क्त तुझीच वाट बघे,
नसून ही असलेला सहवास,
पाहिजे त्याला कश्यापरी

येशील तू, राहशील तू, हसशील तू, बोलशील तू,
हृदयाचे स्पंदन छेडशील तू,
कधीही न विसरणारा आभास देशील तू,
डोले मिटुनी पाहतो मी जेव्हा तुला,
दिसतेस तू दूर कुठेतरी 


-----------  अनुराग  --------------------

Yaadein....

कुछ खामोश थी आँखे आज तुम्हारी याद में,
कभी नाम कभी निराश ढूँढती तुम्हे तारों में,
ख्वाबों की पतंग जो उडाती रातों में,
फिर भी तुम्हे मिल ना पायी आज बातों में

बाहें जो हमारी तुम्हे ले ना पायी आघोष में,     

प्यासी रही  बेचारी बरसते सावन में,
ना हुआ जो एहसास तुम्हारा साँसों में, 
काश मिल जाते तुम हसीन वादों में, 

फिर एक दिन गुजरा हैं तुम्हारी याद में,
चाह के भी कह ना पाए ऐसे एहसास में, 
भीड़ में कही ढूँढ ना पाए तुम्हे, 
फिर भी नजर आये हो बंद आंखों से 


                      



 xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx अनुराग xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx

Woh tum hi kya jisme hum nahi.....

Woh jindagi hi kya, jisme pyaar nahi, Woh pyaar hi kya jisme yaade nahi, Woh yaade hi kya jisme tum nahi, Woh tum hi kya jisme hum nahi

Woh baag hi kya jisme phul nahi, Woh phul hi kya jispe titliyaan nahi, Woh titliyaan hi kya jinme rang nahi, Woh rang hi kya jinme bahar nahi, Woh bahar hi kya jisme tum nahi, Woh tum hi kya jisme hum nahi

Woh insaan hi kya jisme dil nahi Woh dil hi kya jisme jajbaat nahi Woh jajbaat hi kya jisme khushiyaan nahi Woh khushiyaan hi kya jisme tum nahi Woh tum hi kya jisme hum nahi Woh nadi hi kya jiska kinaara nahi Woh kinaara hi kya jiski manjil nahi Woh manjil hi kya jispe tum nahi Woh tum hi kya jisme hum nahi                                        ################ Anurag #################

Jab Jab Chahoge Tum Hume

Jab jab chahonge tum hame,
Tab Tab paoge tum hame,

Raston pe chalte agar haath choonth jaaye,
Apne hateli ke nami par paoge tum hame,                                                                           

Tumhari yaadon se hum agar mit gaye,
Apne saason ki aawaz mein paoge tum hame

Agar kabhi Tumhari nazron se ojhal ho gaye,
Apni palkhon ke saaye mein paaoge tum hame

Hum tum mein iss kadar sama jayenge,
Ki chaha kar bhi bhoola naa paoge tum hume

Jab jab chahonge tum hume,
Tab Tab paoge tum hume

                          ############### Anurag ####################